In December of 2004 I swapped the points out for a Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition and replaced the engine gauge wiring feed. There's no permanent modifications that need to be done to the distributor to perform this and it can go back to a points setup in the future without any problems. The engine gauge feed wiring was replaced since it was brittle and starting to crack due to age and the fact it sits right on top of the motor where it's subjected to extreme heat. I think it's earned it's retirement after 36 years of service :p

The electronic ignition is something that I should have done some time ago. The car now starts quicker and idles smoother. It definitely gives a noticeable improvement. The only way for someone to know that it's installed is if they notice one extra wire (red) going to the coil. This is what we could call an "almost hidden upgrade".

This is the original points setup before anything was done. The original engine gauge feed wiring is also visible in the lower right hand corner of the photo. It's been painted blue since it wasn't removed or covered up when the motor was repainted.

I removed the screws holding the points and condenser in place. Then the black wire from the points to the coil was unplugged. This allowed me to lift the points and condenser out while feeding the wire through the opening in the distributor body. You may need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the molded on wire grommet to release it from the distributor body when you're ready to pull the wire through. After they were removed I replaced the screws back in so they wouldn't get lost and they'll be there if the car ever goes back to a points setup. They won't hurt anything being left in there.

Here's the condenser, points, and wire (with grommet molded on) removed. You don't have to remove it as an assembly like I did. If you look carefully at the wire between the grommet and plug you can see electrical tape wrapped around it. The wire is brittle and beginning to crack. This wire is available from parts suppliers if you need to replace it. I didn't need it since the electronic ignition came with all new wiring.

Next was temporary removal of the rotor. With the rotor removed slide the ring on (with the wider portion on top) that came with the Ignitor. Press it all the way down on the distributor shaft and then replace the rotor. Now the Ignitor can be installed. Place it in the distributor with the peg in the hole and use one of the previous screws to hold it loosely in place. Using the plastic spacer included in the kit set the distance between the Ignitor and the ring. Tighten the screw carefully making sure the ignitor doesn't shift and change the gap while doing this.

This is what the Pertronix Ignitor looks like after it's installed. The wires and grommet have also been installed through the distributor housing. The black ring is visible under the rotor. The gap has been set, the screws are tight, and the caps ready to go back on in this pic.

Now feed the wires through the hole and press the grommet in place. The distributor cap can be reinstalled at this point. They give you more wire than what's needed in this case (the coil can be found in different locations depending on the vehicle, motor, and year) so I cut the excess off. I then stripped the wires and crimped the ring terminals on which enabled me to attach them to the coil. The original wire used a press on connector while with the new ring terminals I needed nuts to hold the wires onto the threaded terminals of the coil. I picked up stainless steel nuts at the hardware store so they'll never rust or corrode like normal fasteners.

Here's a shot of the coil. In 1968 with the 289's the coil was mounted on top of the intake manifold adjacent to the passenger side valve cover. This coil is a reproduction "yellow top". You can also see the stainless steel nuts and the ring terminals. The additional red wire next to the black one leaving the distributor is the dead giveaway that the car has an electronic ignition in place of the original points.

The vehicle can now be started and driven. You can also check the timing if you wish. At the time I did this I didn't own a timing light so I never checked it. The fact the vehicle started right up and idled well lead me to believe it was good. A few months later, after purchasing a timing light, I checked it and found it was within spec.

One other thing I should mention is that I know some people will trace and find the resistance wire behind the ignition switch and bypass it. I didn't do this although I think it's recommended. With the wire bypassed you allow more voltage to the Ignitor resulting in a better spark and performance. I have yet to have any problems with it still in place and with just the Ignitor installed the car already performs better.

PAGE 2 (Engine gauge feed wiring replacement)

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